Mystery Worshipper: Cool Dude
Church:
St Olave, City of London
Location: London, England
Date of visit: Tuesday, 20 October 2026, 5:30pm
The building
Claiming to be the smallest church in the City of London – that is, the central business district of the wider capital – most of the building is 12th to 15th century, though probably occupying a site that has been the location of Christian worship for two or three centuries before that. The church was one of two dedicated to St Olave in the City, probably reflecting the presence of Nordic traders in London, a notably cosmopolitan place in medieval times. Bombed in the Blitz in 1941, it was restored in the 1950s, and much of the stone shows a scarred surface, the effect of fire. Because the incendiary bomb flames went upward through the roof, the church contains a surprising number of monuments to the great and the good on the walls. These are remarkably unscathed by the bombing.
The church
Now surrounded tightly by towering offices. Even modern architecture fans will find little to admire in the narrow streets around this church. Like canyons, they receive too little daylight and together form an inhuman urban scene. The historic parish of St Olave which once clustered tightly around the church has long since gone without trace. St Olave appears to minister to a gathered congregation and has a lively website. It was difficult to tell from my visit who they are, because the lecture crowd appeared to be mostly comprised of non-regulars.
The neighborhood
There is a small walled churchyard with attractive planting and many seats, which must be popular with office workers, especially at lunchtime – a small island of respite from the modern city.
The cast
The rector conducted Compline with the assistance of a clerk who chanted the office with him, as a duo.
What was the name of the service?
Compline.How full was the building?
About 100 – two-thirds female and average age almost as old as I am.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
The chap handing out the order of service was busy explaining to visitors, many of whom seemed to be first-timers, where to sit and what to do with their candles; we were given one each. He did a good job, though was a little overwhelmed. I asked him if this was a service of Compline, as I had been told that it is normally sung in the tiny crypt of the church, by an intimate gathering of about 20 people, and is special for that reason. Seeing five times that number in the main church made me wonder if I was in the right place. But Compline was to be followed by a lecture, and that was the reason for the larger numbers and changed venue. The lecture, which was not billed on the church website, was to be about the historic tea trade, which probably has many connections to mercantile London, but not so many to the office of Compline.
Was your pew comfortable?
It was. I selected one with a cushion. It might have been a different matter in those pews without padding.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
Lively. Lots of chatter. People seemed to have come in groups or knew each other. I very much doubt they were office workers from the City, so I guess they had travelled in from further afield.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
There was seven minutes of welcome, introduction, explanation, encouragement to join in, history, warnings about the hazards of candles, and a shocking admission that he was using an order of service ‘borrowed’ from another church. He begged us not to shop him. The introduction was well-meant, but far too wordy.
What books did the congregation use during the service?
'The order of service for night prayer (Compline) in traditional language.' It contained all we needed. There was a historical note in the booklet explaining that Compline was a controversial re-introduction to the Church of England and was contained in the rejected 1928 version of the Book of Common Prayer. The office we were saying today was from the current Common Worship and therefore, so to speak, kosher.
What musical instruments were played?
None.
Did anything distract you?
Holding a lit candle for 25 minutes has the capacity for distraction. Will you drip wax over the pew, or worse, some favoured knitwear? And how do you turn the page of the service booklet one-handed?
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
It was everything a Compline should be: prayerful, comforting, mellow and suited to a monastic early bedtime. At 5.30pm we were a little early for sleep, but the early winter darkness outside helped the spirit of things. The church lights were switched off at the beginning so the only light was that provided by candles. The minister and his clerk chanted much of the service, and though we had the notation in our orders of service, nobody sitting around me joined in. I suppose if they were new to chant that might be as well. Others at the back of the church participated and must be used to the service, as they were in tune and accompanied in low voices. I again thought that this must work better in the church's small crypt.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
There was none.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
The Collect Against All Perils: 'Lighten our darkness, we beseech thee, O Lord, and by thy great mercy defend us from all perils of this night...' This also features in Evening Prayer and Evensong and is one of my favourites.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
Far from hellish but mildly disappointing: we were told the lights would be dimmed for the Office and would remain dimmed at the end for silent prayer. In fact the bright lights came up promptly and people started moving equipment around for the lecture which was to follow. There was lively chatter. I would have relished five minutes of collective silence.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
Not having the time for the lecture or tea, I didn't stay. I briefly chatted to a gent who had been sitting near me, who was a regular, but he didn't stay either, so we both melted into the busy rush-hour pavements round about.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
Cake was offered, which would have suited the lecture topic. But for the lecture attenders there seemed to be wine glasses set out too. I didn't sample these treats.
How would you feel about making another visit (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
8 — I shall definitely return and hope to choose a date when there is no lecture and the Compline is said in the crypt. Compline is only twice a month with the other Tuesday evenings offering Evensong with a choir.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time ?
The candlelit church.
Main photo by Brokentaco under CC BY 2.0