Mystery Worshipper: Portola
Church:
Island Church of Poel, Kirchdorf
Location: Poel, Germany
Date of visit: Sunday, 20 October 2024, 10:00am
The building
This island church is a surprisingly large red-brick structure. A Romanesque church was built in 1230, and 100 years later it was doubled in size and restructured in Gothic style. The oldest object in the church is a crucifix from 1350. The main altar, depicting the crowning of Mary and a collection of saints, was installed in 1430. A side altar, with Mary and child in the center, and nativity scenes on the wings, was completed in 1470. As a visitor, one can stand or sit within touching distance of this side altar. The church is surrounded by a cemetery and encircled by a grove of tall beech trees. Above the trees, the eight-sided church tower, 47 meters high, is visible from miles away. For centuries it provided an orientation point for mariners entering the Bay of Wismar. Until 1632, the church was enclosed by a fortress, of which the earthen embankments have remained.
The church
The Lutheran Reformation reached Poel in 1533, fortunately without any iconoclasm. Today, aside from regular Sunday services, there is a Saturday service for children and an annual service for mariners, which deals with all aspects of sea life. There are concerts, a choir, a handicraft circle, a Baltic-Samba-Drum group, activities for children and seniors, and a St Martin’s day procession with lanterns. A so-called Live Advent Calendar is being organized, during which people congregate outside of homes every evening in December for a half-hour of fellowship. Initiatives are being organized to raise money for the renovation of the organ.
The neighborhood
Poel is an island in the Baltic Sea, 10 miles north of the port city of Wismar. The island is 14 square miles in size, with about 2,500 inhabitants. It is a popular place for outdoor recreation because of its sandy beaches, small boat harbors, fishing, farmland and coastal scenery. The sea air has been certified as being therapeutic for skin and lung ailments. The church, which is one of the main attractions of Poel, belongs to the village of Kirchdorf, which provides a harbour for excursion ships from Wismar.
The cast
The pastor presided and preached. A woman lay person did the Old Testament and Gospel readings and participated in the intercessions.
What was the name of the service?
Gottesdienst (Divine Service).How full was the building?
About 50 people, who filled the front part of the church, which can hold at least 200. The ages ranged between 30 and 70, with one child in attendance.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
The pastor greeted us cordially with a handshake, remarking ‘You are very early!’ We had arrived 25 minutes before the beginning of the service.
Was your pew comfortable?
The pew was comfortable.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
The conversations before the service were animated and cheerful. As people arrived, they conveyed the impression that they were delighted to be in this church.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
‘A hearty welcome to our service in the Island Church.’
What books did the congregation use during the service?
Evangelisches Gesangbuch (hymnbook) für die Evangelisch-lutherische Landeskirche Mecklinburg, supplemented by a sheet with the psalm of the day, a hymn and a special creed used in this service. We also had a printed liturgy which included the musical notes of the sung parts.
What musical instruments were played?
Organ, a trumpet and two trombones. The organ was constructed in 1704, and was restructured by Friedrich Albert Mehmel in 1875, and by Wolfgang Nußbücker in 1967-83. The organ has 750 pipes.
Did anything distract you?
The church was decorated with a temporary artistic installation, titled ‘Do not restrict the church to the village’, consisting of 40 white ribbons which were hung from three points on the high ceiling and were attached to the ends of pews, as well as running horizontally across the pews. They engaged my imagination, as I tried to interpret what they represented. A minor distraction occurred when someone sitting near me sang the wrong verse of a hymn. Also, I always find it extremely distracting when the collection is taken during a hymn.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
The service was structured according to Lutheran tradition. At the Kyrie and Gloria and before the closing blessing, the pastor chanted the introductory words, to which the congregation responded. The three brass players gave the service a festive atmosphere. At the prelude and postlude, the brass instruments were accompanied by the organ; during the hymns, the trumpet/trombones accompanied the singing with the organ during even-numbered verses. The congregation confessed their faith with a contemporary creed which contained formulations which reflect aspects of Christian faith which are not explicitly mentioned in the two traditional creeds, such as the role of the people of Israel, God’s love to all people, or the expectation that ‘the entire creation hopes for the coming of God’s kingdom’. It is customary that children leave the service for a children’s service. One young girl was present, who was asked to come to the front of the church. The pastor addressed her and exchanged a few personal words with her; she then went to a room behind the nave for a children’s service, accompanied by two young women and a lantern which had been lit at the altar.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
10 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
9 — In his sermon preparation, the preacher had done his homework, interpreting the Gospel reading for the day on the basis of up-to-date scholarship, especially with regard to the Hebrew Bible. He spoke candidly and with apparent integrity.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
The sermon focused on the part of the Gospel reading in which Jesus says: ‘You have heard that it was said, “An eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth.” But I say to you, Do not resist the one who is evil. But if anyone slaps you on the right cheek, turn to him the other also.’ This message is not appropriate for children, who are vulnerable to bullying; children have to learn to assert themselves and not let themselves be mishandled. This message is for adults, who are responsible for not letting a situation get out of hand but should react in a sovereign manner. Jesus‘ words raise the question: What is justice? Is there not a better justice than spontaneous retaliation? An eye for an eye and a tooth for a tooth is not about revenge, which invariably leads to an escalation of violence, but about determining a measured response, which prevents violence from spiraling out of control. Turning the other cheek means to stand up to an attack, not to run away, not to let emotions get out of hand, but to look for ways to reduce alienation and establish a just peace. This way of responding also has a relevance for the present conflicts in the Middle East. Jesus‘ words reflect a rabbinical style of interpreting the Torah, which involves looking at a command from various angles, fitting it into a specific situation, and acting within the framework of God’s infinite goodness.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
This service was absolutely delightful for a variety of reasons. The sun was shining brightly; the 13th century red-brick Gothic church conveyed an atmosphere of awe, reverence and historical continuity; the precious 15th century altars, gilded with gold, provided artistic focal points; the well-crafted sermon was captivating from beginning to end; the organ, trumpet and trombones provided festive music; the congregational participation was spirited, and the artistic installation gave the church flair. This service was loaded with elements which produced what I would call a holy joy.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
I have experienced the prelude of this service, ‘Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desiring’ by JS Bach, in various situations throughout my life, including my wedding. But whenever I hear this music, I invariable think back to the first time I encountered this piece of music, namely, on the day after the assassination of President Kennedy on Nov. 22, 1963. As a response to the tragedy, radio stations played only classical music afterwards. For the first time in my life, I heard ‘Jesu, Joy of Man’s Desiring’ (an instrumental version), which was repeated several times on the days of mourning, and was immediately struck by the haunting beauty of this music.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
There was no chance, as everybody was encouraged to go to the altar area at the front of the church for a Finissage, a closing evaluation of the artistic installation. The artist who had installed the ribbons encouraged the assembled people to share their impressions and interpretations. One person saw in the ribbons a connection between heaven and earth, God and humanity. Another pointed out that the white ribbons resembled light rays. There was talk of ‘cosmic veins’. The tent-like structure of the ribbons was mentioned, as well as the biblical symbolism of a tent. The assembled persons obviously enjoyed being in this church and talking about their faith; some of them expressed the desire that the ribbons remain in the church for a while longer.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
There was no after-service coffee.
How would you feel about making another visit (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
10 — A 13th century red-brick Gothic church, a well-organized preacher, and a spirited congregation have a magnetic appeal.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes. I especially appreciated that this service expressed the anchoring of Christian faith in the biblical history of the people of Israel.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time ?
Many churches in the coastal areas of northern Germany display ship models, which are often votive offerings, usually hung from the ceiling. This church featured a model of a historic fishing boat which was unusually large, about 10 feet high, and sat on a ledge next to a row of pews. As I entered the church, I felt immediately attracted to this boat and felt the urge to sit next to it during the service. Under the boat was a prayer: ‘Lord, bless our sea journey. Guide us during our life journey. Grant us a heavenly journey.’